The design I came up with necessitated: 2x8x8' and 2x10x16' -- Roughly $25 in lumber from the store, but that'd be wet and I didn't want to sacrifice lumber that's waiting for my Nicholson bench, so I went digging around the shop and came up with this. The 2x10 replacement is actually 2x10 that had been ripped down to 8" for a bed frame for my guest room I ended up not building do to a time constraint. Then there was 48" of 2x6 and some 2x12 cut offs. Figuring everything out, I had enough scrap. Only compromise to the design was making to 36" wide vs 48" which had a lot of extra room for the roughly 8x30 footprint of the lathe.

** It wasn't until I had the top dovtailed and everything ready for final assembly that I remembered why my initial design called for a 48" width. I wanted the extra at the end to hold a grinder. I'll have to leave that on my other bench for now. 

Another view of the lumber, in case someone doesn't believe this is all 2x.

I skipped a few pictures. Everything it cut to length with the table saw. 

The Legs are notched for the stretchers, with the cross cut sled for the shoulder cuts, then a chisel and mallet. None of those slow extra waste cuts either. 

The feet were the 2x6, ripped to remove the round edges, then the 2x12 pieces ripped the same and cut to length. These were glued up to tightly space for the legs and screwed together. I'll shape them later. They do have a replaceable foot made of 1x4 cut to size and nailed on. I forgot it must be entirely 2x material. It will be removed and replaced with some dangerously table saw resawn 2x. 

Basic idea is shown in the test fit though, there should be zero racking with those monster stretchers and it's hopefully heavy enough.

Another angle of the test fit. 

Monster dovetails laid out and waste marked. In 2x you have to stay on the waste side, even with the non-exact first cuts as the saw is going to go how it wants to. You can see I lost my 14 degree angle.

A relief cut so I can position the saw to fix that cut. 

OMFG this isn't going to work. This stuff is hard doug fir, so chiseling it out is only going to tire me and dull my chisels. What to do?

Now that's how you hog out monster pin waste!

Get some!

Much faster.

That'll do.

Listen, you've all at least seen dovetails before. I chopped the rest of the waste, pared down to smooth everything out, then marked the pins on the pegs. Cut and drilled out the waste on those, then pared to fit.

So, here's the top being glued up. The dovetails aren't pretty, but they don't need to be. They'll be strong enough in 2x as is. I am only concerned about the mechnical advantage, and not having to buy extra hardware. 

And another view of the top and legs gluing. I checked the squareness as best you can with a 4" machinist square. That square said, "dude, you're off probably a degree or two. My thoughts are the monster stretchers once doweled/lag bolted/whatever will square things out.

My "old" mallet, now used only for assembly duty and a scraper that's suffering from glue cleanup duty.  A "Wood Is Good" 18oz mallet is the replacement for the Estwing double faced, and it is a work horse. I find I always choked up on the Estwing for chisel work, and the carver type mallet has a much more ergonomic feel when gripped high. The lead weight keeps all the weight right there as well, which makes it really nice to use.

Adding some style to the feet. Really wishing I had a band saw. This cut was done with a 26" crosscut saw, then switched to a 26" rip saw as it was sharper and has fewer TPI, though it needs to have the set fixed as it wonders. Then I had to go back over it and get a precise cut with a crosscut carcass saw, which does not have near enough depth of cut so it was interesting. Then I cleaned it up with a Stanley No 4 that needs a some TLC at the stones because this fir is really unusually hard and that blade wasn't near sharp enough for it.

I glued and attached the stretchers with lag screws I had laying around, also washers. I had a box of 8mm flat washers, so those fit nicely on the 5/16 lags.

And here it is all assembled minus the feet.

Feet attached with more of the lag screws (I had a whole box) and metric washers. No glue on these, as I had realized the error of my ways at this point of making it only 36" wide. This might be temporary, and the legs I may want to make wider as well after I see what kind of stability it has while turning. I did go ahead and flip them to the outside for hopefully some added stability, from my original test fit and design. 

After removing the rubber feet from the lathe, I found that the power switch box sits too low for the feet to all sit flush. We'll have to fix that.

Problem area marked out. Also holes drilled for the M8 bolts - I used 5/16, but I later went ahead and used 1/2" to give more give for fitting and in case that board decides to move. 

Clearance added with a 1" chisel, mallet, and a router plane. My poor Narex 1" suffered an injury as it rolled off the top, falling to the concrete. Will need to work that bevel a bit.

It fits! Mounted with 4 M8-1.25x60mm bolts, 8 5/16 fender washers (less than half the price of M8 fender washers), and then a total of 12 m8 washers for spacers. I'll tweak these when I put it in it's final location to level everything out.

Another shot, with some puppy action.

Detail of the mounting and of the sloppy dovetails. Corners somewhat sanded off. I hate sanding. I'll probable go back over it all after I sharper my #4. Ignore the random pencil lines, I had a different project marked out on some of the boards.

And just to check how it handled vibrations without the rubber isolation. Seems fine to me. This is my first attempt at turning by the way. I didn't even sharpen my HF chisels on the right side, I did a quick clean up before the cove on the left - much better finish.