Man those are some really nice boxes. Really nice.
My opinion on pricing is that the most costly thing in your shop is your time. Don't sell yourself short on that aspect. 6 hours at $50/hr is $300.00 minimum and I don't think that is out of range from where similar hand made boxes are priced. Nicer materials and additions like leather interiors only drive up the price from there. Start high, see what the market will bear, and adjust or negotiate as needed.
@Jennessa16 I use an adjustable wrench to really tighten down the wing-nut to put a lot of tesion on the blade. The blade has to be super tight like a piono wire or guitar string. When I'm done with the saw and put it away I loosen the blade completely. The blade will still twist if I don't keep it level while sawing and therefore some practice is neccesary. I hope this helps, if you have any further questions feel free to reach out.
I'm a hand tool guy and I try my best to avoid sandpaper all together It's hand planes and card scrapers for me, I do use 220 grit to soften edges and corners before I apply the finish. When I do use sandpaper I will go 150 grit to 220 and if I'm using a highly figured wood I'll go up to 320 and maybe even 400 grit.
A lot of the time I will use carpet tape to lock in the leather panels but this time they are just friction fit. It's nice to know I can just pull them out to clean them if nothing else and replace them if somehow they get damaged.
I would like to know more about the finish prep for inlays and stringing. Are you using hand planes for flattening or is it just a ton of scraping and/or sanding?
I bet you could write an entire post on the process involved after the inlay is applied to get to the point where you are ready for finish.
What a beauty. I love the subtle contrast with the Maple and Cherry, and the curly door panel is terrific.
Blue tape is also very helpful when marking out your pins, put tape on the end grain and then use your knife to mark the pins. When you peel the tape off of the waste sections the lines will be much easier to see than just knife marks.
Hi Robert, I have in fact made boxes with a lip. Most of those did not have hinges, they we lift off lids and the lip holds the lid in place. I have seen the soft close effect on hinged lids and I like it a lot, in fact David Barron has a terrific Youtube video on constucting and fitting this type of lid.
The hinges I use most often are from Horton Brasses, High quality, reasonably priced, and they come in several different finishes. I've included a link below to the hinges I use most, $14 per pair with the brass screws included (a steel screw is not included like Brusso does). Horton calls them "clock and small box hinges"
Comments
10 Identical Jewelry Boxes
Man those are some really nice boxes. Really nice.
My opinion on pricing is that the most costly thing in your shop is your time. Don't sell yourself short on that aspect. 6 hours at $50/hr is $300.00 minimum and I don't think that is out of range from where similar hand made boxes are priced. Nicer materials and additions like leather interiors only drive up the price from there. Start high, see what the market will bear, and adjust or negotiate as needed.
An Inexpensive Frame Saw
@Jennessa16I use an adjustable wrench to really tighten down the wing-nut to put a lot of tesion on the blade. The blade has to be super tight like a piono wire or guitar string. When I'm done with the saw and put it away I loosen the blade completely.
The blade will still twist if I don't keep it level while sawing and therefore some practice is neccesary.
I hope this helps, if you have any further questions feel free to reach out.
Maple and Padauk Box
@KiwiRobyn Thanks.
I'm a hand tool guy and I try my best to avoid sandpaper all together It's hand planes and card scrapers for me, I do use 220 grit to soften edges and corners before I apply the finish. When I do use sandpaper I will go 150 grit to 220 and if I'm using a highly figured wood I'll go up to 320 and maybe even 400 grit.
Maple and Padauk Box
@WoodGateA lot of the time I will use carpet tape to lock in the leather panels but this time they are just friction fit. It's nice to know I can just pull them out to clean them if nothing else and replace them if somehow they get damaged.
Nautical Themed Marquety Table
This is a stunning piece, I love it.
I would like to know more about the finish prep for inlays and stringing. Are you using hand planes for flattening or is it just a ton of scraping and/or sanding?
I bet you could write an entire post on the process involved after the inlay is applied to get to the point where you are ready for finish.
Hexagonal Keepsake Box
Great work Scott, really beautiful piece. All my favorite woods too.
That cherry will darken a little too and add even more contrast to the Maple.
Dovetailed Tea Box in cherry
Supreme, one of the best I've seen in quite a while.
Cherry Side Table
That's a terrific little table. I like that you are planing rather than sanding so much.
I like the tennon technique on the band saw too.
Low chest of drawers
Really beautiful work Ryan. The detail of cutting out the seperation on the drawer fronts works so well.
BTW - top right of your post, under the thumbnail, there is a view count and like count. You should see an edit post option there.
Padauk Tea Box
Scott Hampshire, you my man, are an artist.
The clean lines and the straight grain are so very complimentary in this piece. The roundover detail is just right too.
Terrific work
Cherry and Walnut Box
Great looking piece.
The Walnut and Cherry work so well together.
Cherry, Spalted and Birdseye Maple Music/Jewelry Box
It's not a mistake... it's a feature.
Love it.
Mid-Century Modern Walnut Coffee Table
I love the attention to detail your work. The piece looks great and a nice write-up too.
I too, wish everyone was this exited about grain continuity.
Dovetail wall cabinet in cherry and curly maple
What a beauty. I love the subtle contrast with the Maple and Cherry, and the curly door panel is terrific.
Blue tape is also very helpful when marking out your pins, put tape on the end grain and then use your knife to mark the pins. When you peel the tape off of the waste sections the lines will be much easier to see than just knife marks.
Queen Bed Frame
Scott, you really let your full woodworking skill-set shine on this one.
Impeccable workmanship buddy. It looks like the last bed frame you'll ever need.
The write-up is on point too.
-Tim
Kumiko Box
Well done brother, well done.
Your designs are excellent and your work is always top notch.
Cherry Wall Cabinet
Man oh man, that's a serious piece of artwork right there.
Birdseye Maple And Walnut Box
@WoodGateNot stop hinges.
Birdseye Maple And Walnut Box
@WoodGate
Hi Robert, I have in fact made boxes with a lip. Most of those did not have hinges, they we lift off lids and the lip holds the lid in place. I have seen the soft close effect on hinged lids and I like it a lot, in fact David Barron has a terrific Youtube video on constucting and fitting this type of lid.
The hinges I use most often are from Horton Brasses, High quality, reasonably priced, and they come in several different finishes. I've included a link below to the hinges I use most, $14 per pair with the brass screws included (a steel screw is not included like Brusso does). Horton calls them "clock and small box hinges"
https://www.horton-brasses.com/PB-405.asp
Contemporary Desk In Cherry
I really dig the leather accents.
That Cherry is going to look even better after it darkens.