Cutting parts to size & routing grooves at the router table

author-gravatar Sean Jun 02, 2016

Dimensioning The Parts
We start off by cutting the oversized parts to size at the table saw. The board for the box sides is cut to 2 3/4" wide but we leave the length at 40" for now.  Keeping it at this length allows us to easily smooth the boards with our smoothing plane instead of having to plane smaller pieces.

Routing Grooves
Cutting the grooves on the inside face is super simple and only requires 1 configuration at the router table. I use a 1/4" spiral bit for all operations in this project. For the grooves I raise the bit to 1/4" and set the fence back 1/4" to cut a 1/4" X 1/4" groove. 

Smoothing With Hand Planes
And finally in this video, I use my number 3 plane to remove any milling marks on 4 sides of the board. I use my number 3, but of course you can use whatever hand plane you have. Heck, you don't even really need to use a hand plane if you prefer to sand. Just use some 80 - 120 - 220 grit sandpaper in your orbital sander and you will be set.

Thanks for watching. I welcome all feedback!

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Hey Sean, great video.

I'd like to offer a couple of technique tips on hand planing.

First, I noticed that you were gripping the tote of the plane using all four fingers and in a couple of instances your pinky finger was in an awkward position. Point your index finger in the direction you want the plane to go, it will give you more room especially on the smaller tote of a #3 plane and it will help with the tipping problem at the end of your cut.

Second, instead of skewing the plane at the end of the cut try releasing your grip completely from the knob of the plane and use your right hand only to keep the heel of the plane flat on the work. This will do two things for you, it will keep you from tilting the plane left or right, and it will keep you from diving down on the end of the cut.

I hope it was helpful,

Tim

So far so good Sean! Really like the instructional videos. Looking forward to rest of the build a long series.

@Timmy2Hands  said:

Hey Sean, great video.

I'd like to offer a couple of technique tips on hand planing.

First, I noticed that you were gripping the tote of the plane using all four fingers and in a couple of instances your pinky finger was in an awkward position. Point your index finger in the direction you want the plane to go, it will give you more room especially on the smaller tote of a #3 plane and it will help with the tipping problem at the end of your cut.

Second, instead of skewing the plane at the end of the cut try releasing your grip completely from the knob of the plane and use your right hand only to keep the heel of the plane flat on the work. This will do two things for you, it will keep you from tilting the plane left or right, and it will keep you from diving down on the end of the cut.

I hope it was helpful,

Tim

It absolutely was helpful, Tim! I appreciate it! I'm just getting used to using the smaller number 3, so I agree about the awkward placement of my fingers. I will pay attention to it next time if I remember lol.

Thats a good tip about letting the knob go completely and makes sense. As you can see, i'm mainly a power tool guy that's trying to incorporate hand tools more and more into my projects so tips like this really helps!

@guyswoodshop  said:

So far so good Sean! Really like the instructional videos. Looking forward to rest of the build a long series.

Thanks Guy! It feels weird not having to cut so much out of the video like my other YouTube videos. I really enjoy being able to show more of the process and not make people mad lol.

It's good to see @guyswoodshop in the house. (one of my favorite YouTubers).

I agree with him completely, I really dig the long format instructional videos.

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