Top and Sub Top

author-gravatar millerseth Oct 31, 2019

The desktop is made from the best of the walnut from this batch I purchased. This was one of the best loads of walnut i have found, all from the same tree, and these pieces had the straightest grain, and almost no defects. 

The desktop panel was glued up using biscuits for alignment. 

After the panel glue up was cured, it was trimmed to final length, but left oversized in the width. 

The desktop will receive a curve to match the upper case. The curve is traced directly from the case onto the top. It is not normal to have a desktop that is exactly the same size as the desk case, but this desk will also receive a sub top that is larger. 

The curve is rough cut at the bandsaw making sure to stay slightly outside the line. 

The curve is then finalized by clamping the top to the upper case and using a router to flush it up. 

The front of the desktop will receive a custom profile to allow maximum comfort. To do this, I first traced the curve out about 1 1/2" back. 

The profile was then hand shaped with a spokeshave. 

The details were touched up with some sand paper on a piece of scrap wood. 

The back of the desktop gets a cable pass through. This is cut using a router and a template. 

After the cut is made, the hole receives a rabbet all the way around to support a cap. 

The desktop then receives it's first rough sanding. 

To make the pass through cap, I use painters tape to cover the hole, and then trace the pattern with a pencil. 

The pattern can then be removed and stuck onto the cap for easy shaping. 

The cap is cut to length and with at the table saw. 

The corners can then be shaped. 

Finally, the cap is run through the drum sander a couple times until it sits perfectly flush in the top. 

A couple rare earth magnets are used to hold the cap in place. 

The cap receives a finger pull for easy removal. 

I next move on to the sub-top. The sub-top is made from spalted maple, and is a very basic frame that sits under the desktop. The joinery is loose tenons with mortises cut at my horizontal mortiser. 

The sub top will also receive a curve to match the upper case, but is larger than the case or desktop. The curve is traced with a space of 1 1/2"

The curve is rough cut at the bandsaw. 

The curve is then cleaned up with hand tools. 

The front of the sub-top will receive the same hand shaped profile as the top. 

After the sub-top is glued up, mounting holes can be drilled. 

The rear holes are elongated to allow for seasonal wood movement. 

The sub-top will be mounted on the sides with table top fasteners. These require biscuits slots to be cut. 

The screw holes are pre-drilled in the case. 

The sub-top is mounted first

Then the desktop can be mounted. 

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