Layout the mortise and mark the waste area. This is one big a** mortise, 19.5" long, 1.75" wide, and 1 7/16" deep that will end up housing the vise criss cross in the leg.

Secure the piece on your bench so it doesn't move around while you're trying to work on it. In addition to the hold fast you see in the picture, there are also bench dogs on the far side to keep it from sliding.

Bosch 1617 EVSPK with the edge guide and dust collection addons. The bit being used is a Whiteside up-cut spiral bit in a 1/2" shaft, as we'll be loading this puppy up pretty good with this cut in purpleheart. The router is attached to a shop vac

Drop the router bit down to where it's resting on the surface of the piece, or your bench, or a piece of scrap. It just needs to be flush with the bottom of the router plate.

Pick a depth stop setting that works well for the cut you'll be performing.

Since we know the router bit is resting on the surface and is level with the router plate, the current depth of cut is nothing. Set the depth ruler to zero.

Keep the ruler in place and lift the metal rod to the desired depth you want. In this case, we're going for 1 7/16". Turn the thumbscrew to lock the metal depth stop rod in place.

Adjust the edge guide to where the router bit is now lined up with your mortise lines, then lock down all of the thumb screws nice and tight.

There are multiple options to know where to stop. One option is to do a full plunge down to final depth so you know where to stop on your passes. The scrap piece in this picture is also acting as a stop to keep me from moving the router too far. You want to make sure you are moving the router in the direction that is against the direction the router bit is spinning.

Plunge, take a light pass, then keep taking continually deeper passes.

Go back to your starting point then plunge, take a light pass, then keep taking continually deeper passes.

Makes it easier so you don't have to continually watch and you get repeatable results.

1/2" down, more to go. Adjust your edge guide or fence to line up the other side of the mortise.

Go back to your starting point then plunge, take a light pass, then keep taking continually deeper passes until you're at your final depth.

I was a little too aggressive and the bit heated up pretty hot, then the collet loosened enough for the bit to bite and dive a little deeper. Could have been a whole lot worse.

I was a little too aggressive and the bit heated up pretty hot, then the collet loosened enough for the bit to bite and dive a little deeper. Could have been a whole lot worse.

Adjust the fence and hog out the rest of the waste taking light, progressively deeper passes.

That was really a lot of work. While giving the router a break to cool down, I started to square off the far edge of the mortise.

Line up a wide chisel with the line and give it a gentle tap to scribe a line and define the edge of the mortise. If you start beating on it too hard here, the bevel of the chisel will act like a ramp and compress the fibers of the wood and move your line.

Progressively move backwards towards your new scribed line until you're all square around.

The criss cross fits. The leg chop will have a complimenting mortise just like this one the other piece will fit into. I haven't decided whether or not to patch the spot where the bit dug and took a bit out the side. This is mostly hidden, but it'll piss me off every time I see it. As I get closer to final I'll determine if it's worth the effort and time.

This was touched up and perfectly sharp with a 27 degree bevel before I started. Didn't fare so well on a small amount of work. Purpleheart isn't easy on your tools though, so was to be expected.