I don't do full size or complete drawings when I start a project.  I normally just sketch out a part of it, and then build it on the fly as I go.  This is the preliminary start that I will go from. 

Laying out the way I want the leg inlays and stringing to look.

I am fortunate enough to work at a hardwood supplier, so I was able to pick up these three pieces of flat sawn Sapele for under $80.

Splitting the parts to glue up the legs.  I'm trying to find the best grain match so the seam will be invisible when glued up.

One down, three to go.

Good thing I have over 125 clamps on the shop.  BUT, you can never have enough!!!!

Using my leg template to mark for the tapering of the legs.  The legs will start their taper just below the "bullet" inlay I am going to be making.

Layout Marks.

The Pica marker with the white marking insert is invaluable when marking dark woods.

Cutting out the tapers.  I leave them just a tad heavy to clean them up on the jointer.

That Laguna bandsaw is one of the best investments I've made.

Laying out the legs so I can keep the tapers straight.  I always put the best ones in front.

After bandsawing them out, I clean up the marks with one pass on the jointer.  It leaves a nice, clean surface.

All tapered out.

Let the inlay begin!!!!  I use an auxiliary bench clamped to my regular bench.  I am 6'4" tall, so the higher bench makes all the up close work I have to do with chisels, router planes, etc., much easier (and more accurate).

Heating up the sand to sand shade the Newport Book inlay and bullet moulding to compliment it.  The tongs are hand made from a local blacksmith.  I love them, and they keep my hands away from that hot sand.

Using a wider piece to shade, and the ripping the strips out of it, make it easier to handle.

The 4 sections of the "book".

Taped up and ready to cut out the top and bottom.  The lines on the inlay help me to register the chisel properly so the final product is consistent.

I use the same chisel to cut the top arches and bottom coves of the inlay.  Slow and steady.

All cut out with the chisels.

Using the same chisel, I mark out the area on the legs to excavate for the inlay.

The Dremel helps to hog out most of the material for the inlay.

Good old fashioned router planes help clean up the rest and get into the tight areas.  The little one, with the pointed blade is a Godsend on an inlay like this.

Using Old Brown Glue to inlay the Book into the freshly excavated cavity.

I made a Maple and Wenge 2 piece banding for running around the Tiger Maple square inlay that will be inlaid in the leg beneath the Book.

More excavation.

Squaring up the corners.

Tiger Maple for the square inlay.

Resawing the square inlay.

Square inlay inlaid in leg.

Starting to inlay the Maple/Wenge stringing around the square inlay.

I absolutely love my Bessey DuoKlamps.  Just a shot of them holding the leg in place as I work on the border of the square inlay.

Using the kumiko block I got from Mike Pekovich to miter the border.  Perfect miters.

Progress of square inlay border.

Done with the square inlay border.

Close up shot of the square inlay border.

Lie-Nielsen stringing cutter based on the Steve Latta design.

The cutter rides along the edge of the leg and follows the taper perfectly.

The grooves take under 5 minutes to cut and they are perfect with this cutter.

Using the radius cutter to cut the arc for the stringing and my Walke Moore protector pad place the point.

Finished the arc.

The stringing for the legs.

Planing the maple down to begin making the "bullet" banding.

The "bullets" made with one concave side and one convex side.

Slicing them into small pieces.

All of the cutting for the "bullet" pieces.

I used Whiteside bits to cut the concave and convex sides of the banding.

Using the same setup I had for the Newport Book to shade the "bullet" pieces.

All of the pieces with sand shaded fronts.

Line up the the pieces to get the length.

I will band the outside of the pieces to give it a nice border and help hold the packet together.

My banding jig that I use to glue up the pieces.

My shop helper helping me apply glue.

This is what the banding looks like after applying a double layer of Maple/Wenge.

I sliced the packets to get 11 strips of banding that will go along the bottom rail, wrap around the legs, and travel down the sides.

I mark for the excavation of the banding.

Chisels and router planes work best for getting smooth, controllable results.

Perfect fit.

As I wrap it around, I try to have the banding "chase" itself so it looks like it is flowing around instead of having it uneven on one or more sides.  One continuous band.

This is a Maple/Wenge/Maple banding I made for the cuff at the bottom of the leg.

The cuffs are installed using the same methods as installing the banding around the legs.

Finished shot of the legs.

These will be the front of the crossrails.

These are the backs.  I am not going to be cleaning them up.  More often than not, the non-show faces of fine period furniture was never cleaned up or dressed.  I am going to leave mine in the rough as a nod to the 18th and 19th century furniture maker that came before me that I am trying to emulate.

My shop is about 750 square feet.  I am very fortunate.  BUT, it is set up around the post jacks to be able to easily handle and rip 4x8 sheets of material.  I bought some 5x5 Baltic Birch and couldn't break it down in the shop, and my track saw has a 55" rail, so I had to bust out the jigsaw to rough cut it to a manageable size.  Next time I'll buy the 4x8 Baltic Birch.

Waterfall Bubinga that will be used for the door panels and drawer heads.

Pressing the Waterfall Bubinga onto 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for the door panels.

Pressing the Waterfall Bubinga onto the 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for the drawer heads.  You can never have too many clamps, that's for sure.

Sapele Mahogany stile and rail parts cut to make the panels on the side.

My trusty DeWalt dado set.  This set has served me well for many years.

Holding the stiles and rails tight to the fence to get a perfectly centered groove for the panels.

Grooves...Centered.

Testing to see how it'll look and to take final measurements for the panels.

I don't use my Bowclamps often, but when I need them, they are invaluable.  These will put even pressure in the center of the clamp-up while pressing the Waterfall Bubuinga veneer to the the substrate.

Bookmatched Waterfall Bubinga for the side panels.

My newly completed set of Lie-Nielsen chisels.  Got the last 3 for my birthday (happy dance).  :-)

Using my Festool Domino to join the stiles and rails. 

Perfectly square!!!!

I purchased this angled pliers many many years ago for another purpose, however, I have found it to be the absolute best for pulling out Dominos that are in their mortises.  It gives great leverage and doesn't mar the surface.

Using my Woodpecker's square to score the lines where I will be cutting the panel to final dimension and making sure that the bookmatched center is centered in the panel.  By  scoring the line before I cut, I am insuring that it won't fray from my tablesaw blade.

Panel assembled.

I ran a small rabbet along the bottom edge of the side panels and inlaid the "bullet" moulding I made.  This will continue on around the legs.

One side assembled.  This will be the left side of the huntboard.  The right is a mirror image.  Notice how the "bullet" banding travels around the front leg, along the panel, and to the back leg.  This is repeated on the right side.  However, there will be a transition point along the front of the bottom crossrail as the "bullets" travel in opposite directions (by design).