The setup for this method includes Shapton whetstones (320, 1000, 5000, and 8000) and the Veritas Mk II sharpening jig. This method represents a middle of the road cost for sharpening, and the stones last much longer than the sandpaper over time from the Scary Sharp method - but there is a higher cost to entry. The cost for this setup as shown is ~$354, but there are cheaper water stones (or other methods such as oil stones, diamond plates, etc). If you don't get the Shapton "professional" stones, it comes up at around $200. If I was going to do it again, I wouldn't get the 5000 grit as I rarely use it. What's also not shown in the lapping plate to flatten the stones after they've been used enough. The 320 grit I really only use to regrind bevels when they need a lot of work. http://www.shapton.com/#!traditional-stones/c17u4

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,320,43072,43078&p=51868

What we're sharpening today. A Dewalt 1.25" chisel I use mostly for tasks when I feel there might be nails and such. Not that there is anything wrong with it, I just like the Narex ones much better.

Attach the angle registration jig to the honing jig. I realized after seeing these that I had the registration jig at 3/4" when it should have been at 1 1/4". Oh well. I'll be regrinding this chisel to 25 degrees primary bevel and adding a 27 degree micro bevel. Setup the angle registration jig (their name, not mine) to 25 degrees and put the thumb screw to #1 on the jig (which is also red).

Put the chisel into the jig and make sure it registers to the edge of the jig to remain square.

This picture shows it down, but it should be up. Facing up (the notch is closest the chisel) is +0 degrees, facing right (1 click) is +1 degrees, and facing down is +2 degrees.

I should have taken better pictures, but I was using the 320 grit here. The Shaptons only need to be wet, but don't need to be soaked. Check to see if your stones require being soaked. The old stones I used to have would need to be soaked for a while before sharpening. The best way I know to check is that they should be pooling water on top of it when you add water. If it just absorbs the water and looks dry again, it likely needs to be soaked (or soaked longer).

Getting closer.

The 25 degree primary bevel is reestablished. Looks good on 320 grit, time to go higher.

Start taking passes with the 1000 grit stone to get a smoother surface.

Took about 50 passes with the 1000 grit, and is now ready for our micro bevel. I'm not going to continue through the higher grits for the primary bevel, as it won't be doing the actual cutting in this instance.

I rarely use my 5000 grit, and just go straight to the 8000 grit.

Now set the micro bevel screw facing down to add 2 degrees to the bevel and get a 27 degree micro-bevel

You only need to take a couple passes with this chisel on the 8000 grit to get a micro bevel. This is after only 5 passes.

I went an additional 5 passes (10 total) to get a nice micro bevel.

Place the chisel flat side down on the 8000 grit stone and make a couple laps backwards to remove the burr.

It's probably not needed, but after removing the burr I take another pass from the top to the bottom to ensure the burr is gone.

Sharp enough to shave with now.

I wipe down all of my tools after sharpening (or use) with Jojoba oil to try to fight rusting. They claim Jojoba oil doesn't mess with the finishing process like some other oils/rust inhibitors can. Works so far for me. It came as part of the LN Tool Care kit along with the microfiber rags: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tool-care/tool-care-lie-nielsen-tool-care-kit-?node=4117