Sapele Valet Box
I wanted a little box to hold my keys and other small items to sit on my empty hall table that I built a couple of years ago so I decided to build this mitered valet box. Using the miter key jig I made, it was a quick little project.
Dimensions:
7 inches wide, 10 inches long and 2 1/2 inches tall. The sides are 1/2 inch thick. The bottom is 1/4 inch thick solid Sapele.
Woods Used:
Box sides and bottom: Sapele
Miter Keys: Maple







I’m starting with a Sepele board that is 2 inches thick and measures 7 3/4 inches wide and 18 inches long. I will be able to get all the parts I need from this one board by resawing it at the bandsaw.

I cut the box sides a little over size at the table saw. Once I mill the sides, I will take them down to the final size of 2 1/2" wide.

I mark a center line for me to follow while re-sawing at the bandsaw.

Re-sawing the pieces at the bandsaw.


This part of the board is going to be for the bottom panel. It's going to be 1/4" thick.

After letting the re-sawn boards sit over night, I jointed and planed them down to 1/2 inch in thickness. The bottom panel was planed to 1/4 inch.

Over at the table saw I take the box sides down to 2 1/2inches wide and cut the box sides a little longer than they need to be at the miter saw. This gives me room to get the miters just right.

I use my number 4 smoothing plane to remove any milling marks and to help avoid sanding as much as possible.

I miter one one of the side piece and use a stop block on my miter gauge to get exact length pieces.

Pieces are mitered and cut to exact length.

I use my dado stack to cut a groove for my bottom panel. The dado stack is 1/4" thick, raised 1/4" and is 1/4" away from the fence.

All the grooves are cut out.

All glued up. I use painters tape as my clamps. In the video I show how I lay the boards out and apply the tape.

The box was barely out of square so I tried my best to get it back in square using some quick clamps. It wasn't perfect but close enough for me.

After glueing up the box, the sides weren't perfectly lined up. As you can see in this picture, the right side is about a 64th higher than the panel on the left. I built a little sanding panel to take care of this as you can see in the next photo.

I used a flat piece of particle board and taped some cloth backed sand paper on it. Now when I sand the box, it will reference the flat surface. I used this method for the bottom of the board. For the top, I mainly used my hand plane.

Save this fine sawdust! I had a little gap in the miter and using this fine dust with glue is the perfect filler for the gaps.

I rounded over the whole box with my 1/8 inch round over bit.

Where the corners met on the inside of the box, the router bit couldn't reach.

I used a chisel and sandpaper to fix this issue.

I used my miter key jig and put 1/4 inch wide by 1/2 grooves in the miters and used maple for the keys.

This was the gap I mentioned earlier.

Using that fine sawdust and glue, it filled it without leaving any evidence of a gap once dried.

On the inside of the box where the miters met, there was some squeeze out from the glue up. I started with 120 grit sand paper.

And ended with 220 grit.

Using that same 220 grit, I gave the whole box one final sanding.

Using my flush cut saw, I cut off the excess miter keys and sanded them with 220 grit sand paper.

For the finish I used Waterlox with a medium sheen. I put a total of 3 coats on the box.

After the second coat, I sanded the whole box with 220 grit sandpaper.