Rustic Pallet Wood Trunk With A Hidden Compartment
This rustic trunk was made out of some 1x4 pallet lumber that I picked up locally for 25 cents a board. The whole box except the top are 3/4" in thickness, with the top being 7/8" in thickness. I wanted to keep the feel of this trunk rustic and old so I used fine finish cut nails for the joinery. One cool feature of this trunk is the false bottom hidden compartment and the way that you access it. You use a knot hole as a way to move the false bottom out of the way to access the hidden compartment.
I wanted the hardware that I put on the trunk to also look rustic. From the corner brackets to the hinges, I sanded the paint off and dipped them in to some vinegar to apply a layer of rust. After 24 hours I sprayed a polyurethane on them to lock the rust in.
Overall i'm really pleased with how the trunk came out, especially since I've never aged hardware with vinegar before.
Overall dimensions: 40" x 21 1/2"
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This is the 1x4 pallet lumber I used to build the trunk. I was able to get these for a quarter a board.

With the side panels cut to size, I edge joint each side and glue them up to make the panels.

I do the same with the rest of the panels which include the front, back, sides, bottom, top, and false bottom.


This is when I started to realize how big this thing is! It's heavy, too.

For the joinery of the panels, I used some fine finish cut nails from BT&C.

I dip each nail in vinegar to add some "patina" to them.

This is what the nail looked like after 24 hours.

I sanded the painted corner brackets and dipped them in the vinegar as well. I sprayed the corner brackets and the hinges with a coat of polyurethane to lock the rust in and to prevent it from rubbing off.

I cut rabbets along the bottom of the side and front/back panels for the bottom to sit in.

The front and back panels required a "stop" rabbet.

All of the rabbets have been cut and I measure for the bottom panel.

I sand each panel with 180 grit sandpaper. The purpose of sanding is to remove the dirt and grime, not to make them smooth. You want to keep the rustic appearance.

When using cut nails, orient the nail heads parallel to the grain to help prevent splitting and cracking.




The bottom has been cut and fitted. I used cut nails to on the bottom panel as well.

These are the 8 boards I used to prop the false bottom up. I nailed them to the side panels using a brad nailer.

I got lucky and found a knot hole in the false bottom, allowing me to use it as a "handle" to access the hidden compartment.

The boards nailed in.

False bottom has been fitted and laid in. You want to make sure the panel fits loosely so it wont get stuck during seasonal movement.

These are the corner brackets. I didn't like the paint on them so I sanded it off with 180 grit sandpaper and dipped them in some vinegar.

This is what it looked like after 24 hours.

I applied a coat of poly to lock the rust in.

I also sanded the screw heads to give them a rustic appearance as well.

The hinges also had some black paint so I sanded/dipped them as well.

I finished the piece with a spar urethane from Minwax.

I put 2 coats on total using a natural bristle brush.

I did not sand in between coats.





I made some leather straps for the trunk lifting handles out of some 8oz veg tanned leather.

I mounted them with some screws.


HI, I am am not s furniture maker but I mostly make scrollsaw art. I have made other items. I am limited on my tools. I do not have a joiner but want to make this chest? I have a tabletop style belt sander just to get the crud off pallet boards and glue up that way? any other tips?
I would look at using the kreg jig to join the boards if you don't have a jointer. That would make it a nice tight panel.
@MorningWood said:That's what I may do. I have all the boards now. I have a micro jig which I have used on other pieces. I am going to make mine slightly different. I am going to use cedar for the bottom. I may use rope for the handles. I am also thinking instead of the false bottom putting in a sliding shelf near the top.
well I just glued and screwed some boards. they were pretty twisted. as soon as I let off the clamps it buckled! so I have to modify the design even more. I am going to add boards inside and screwed in from the inside. not ideal but it will work for me.