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Walnut Tea Box

author-gravatar joelav Nov 02, 2016

Experimenting with some different design elements and hand tool joinery

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Walnut box, butternut lid with a walnut inlay

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

The bottom is attached in a rabbet, but I left the rabbet oversized and added a butternut border

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Simple lift off lid

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I wanted the top clean without any pulls, so I chiseled finger recesses in the sides 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I didn't take a lot of build pictures because I didn't even have a basic idea of what this box would look like when I started. I had this cabinet shop off cut that I paid a dollar for. Here I have it marked to be ripped in half

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I ripped it with my rip kataba and using my Japanese floor horses. 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I was pretty impressed with this method. The cut was pretty straight and square

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

The basic layout before I chiseled out the waste from the tails. Mitered rabbets on both edges and center weighted pins 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I like to pre-finish the insides of boxes before I glue them up. Here is some amber shellac applied after I tape off areas that will be glued. Amber shellac is my new favorite finish on Walnut. It really brings out the color

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I stumbled upon a piece of butternut while cleaning (literally). I decided to use that for the lid

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Here I laid out the rabbet for the bottom. I made it a lot deeper than I needed to be so I would have some of it exposed. I also decided to wrap some butternut around it so I offset the rabbet about 1/16" to accomidate. 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

To cut it by hand, I first saw down the lines, keeping everything as straight as possible. This gives me nice clean shoulders 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I used my POS boat anchor to take the long grain sides close to the final depth

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

The short grain sides are a lot easier - no planes with nickers or skewed irons needed. 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Because it's sawed to the baseline, I can split the waste out with a chisel. Again, almost to the baseline. This took about 10 seconds. Once done I cleaned up all the faces with my router plane    

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I then cut the inlay out with my router plane after first getting the walls to depth with a very wide chisel. This was a lot harder than I thought, but it came out good. 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

I basically cut a huge half blind dovetail pin for the finger pull. The problem is getting it clean. Not an issue with dovetails because that part is hidden. A chisel just wouldn't do, so I used a home made push scraper. you can see the tiny little shavings here as I am getting it smooth    

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Almost there, but looking pretty clean 

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Final smoothing of the underside of the butternut top. Butternut can be tricky to plane so a sharp iron and a very tight chip breaker is needed

Photo of Walnut Tea Box

Finish was first pore filling by sainding in some boiled linseed oil, then the final finish is amber shellac. For the butternut top I used blonde shellac to keep the contrast. 

4 comments

Nice build! 

The base is a nice change of pace from what I'm used to seeing. Are you going to add any dividers inside for organization or just leave it a blank slate?

Looks like you've got the mitered dovetails down. This box came out great. I love the color of that walnut with the contrasting lid/base.

Yeah I'm probably going to add a friction fit divider in the center to make 2 rows 

@Clock_Man  said:

Nice build! 

The base is a nice change of pace from what I'm used to seeing. Are you going to add any dividers inside for organization or just leave it a blank slate?

Thanks Sean! 

@Sean  said:

Looks like you've got the mitered dovetails down. This box came out great. I love the color of that walnut with the contrasting lid/base.

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