Diy Floating Shelves With Leds
The floating wall shelves were made out of some left over 8/4 cherry I had after building the bar stools. The joinery method I chose were reinforced miters. I used the Festool domino to reinforce them, but you can use splines or keys if you don't have a domino. For the finish I applied 3 coats of wipe on poly while sanding in between each coat with 320 grit. I routed a 3/8" wide, 1/4" deep groove for an battery powered LED strip.
List of Materials
(2) 1.125"x 5.75"x8.5" - Shorter Horizontal Board
(2) 1.125"x5.75"x9.5" - Vertical Board
(2) 1.125"x5.75"x20" - Longer Horizontal Board
List of Supplies(affiliate links):
Table Saw: http://bit.ly/AcmeToolsSawStop
Jointer Planer Combo: http://bit.ly/JetJointer
Orbital Sander: http://bit.ly/OrbitalSander
Festool Domino: http://shrsl.com/18g5l
LED Strips(QTY: 2) : https://amzn.to/2PMOx5u
Wipe on Poly: https://amzn.to/2CY4iEc
Mounting Brackets: https://amzn.to/2S3Yihk
3/8 Spiral Bit: https://amzn.to/2S6RUWz
Titebond Glue: https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/franklin-5064
Ceramic Geometric Planter Succulent : https://amzn.to/2S6RShu
Finished photos first!
I’ve got a left over cherry board from my barstool build that’s perfect for this project. The final thickness of the shelves are just over an inch thick so the rough 8/4 cherry is going to work just fine. Since the only part of the shelves you will see are the edges, I didn’t get too picky when laying out the parts on the board.
To break down the cherry board, I’m using my jigsaw because it’s too wide to cut on my miter saw.
I begin by flattening one face and then place that face up against the fence to get a 90 degree edge. With one flat reference face, I run them through the planer to take them down to a thickness of 1 1/8”.
I now take the boards down to their final width of 5 3/4” at the table saw.
To cut the boards to length I’m using my miter gauge with a stop block. The first board I cut to length is 8 1/2” long. I clean up one end and then place that end up against the stop block to cut it to size. The next piece I cut was 9 1/2” long. And I cut the third board to a length of 20 inches.
The joinery method I chose for the shelves were miter joints. An easier alternative would be a simple but joint with screws for reinforcement. But for mine, I’m using miters that will be reinforced with lose tenons. The top and bottom shelf parts only have a miter on one end whereas the vertical board has a miter on both ends so it’s worth taking a second to mark the boards so you don’t get confused when you’re cutting them at the table saw.
To begin cutting the miters I tilt the blade to 45 degrees. I use a magnetic angle finder to help me make sure it’s actually tilted 45 degrees to the table. With the stop block set I begin by cutting the miter on one end of the shorter board. I’m using a stop block because I’m making 2 shelves. This allows me to make sure both shelves are the same exact size.
Next I reset the stop block for the vertical piece that gets a miter on both ends. And finally, I cut the single miter on the longer shelf piece.
The shelf is pretty much done if you wanted to stop here, but now I’m going to add a few design elements to make them look a little better. The first design element I added was a chamfer on the ends of the top and bottom piece. I installed a 45 degree chamfering bit at the router table and slowly removed waste until the chamfer looked good to my eye.
To help with tear out while routing the end grain, I’m backing up the piece with a scrap board. I routed the chamfer on the top and bottom shelf board.
The second design element, if you will call it that, are LEDs. The shelves are going to have a groove routed down the center of the boards.
The LEDs I’m using are battery powered, so no outlet required. To route the groove, I first measured the width and thickness of the LED strip to determine which router bit to use. Turns out the strip I bought is 3/8” of an inch wide and a little under a 1/4” thick. So over at the router table, I installed a 3/8”s spiral bit and set it’s height to 1/4". I’m routing the groove on the center of the boards.
Now the grooves on the top and bottom boards are going to be stopped grooves obviously so that I don’t plow through the ends of the boards. That would be ugly. So I made a mark 1” from the edge. This will help me line up the cut. My router fence has 2 marks on it, one on the left side and one on the right side of the bit. This is going to help me when I line up the mark on the board with the bit. I line up the marks and slowly push down on the board, and once it’s flat on the table, I put forward pressure on the board to route the rest of the groove. The vertical board however, has this groove from end to end.
Since the miter joint is an end-grain to end-grain glue joint, we will need to reinforce it. I’m going to use lose tenon joinery that’s cut using the festool domino. An alternative to using the domino would be to use miter keys or splines. I’ll link to a video below that I’ve made showing how I cut these on the table saw. It’s fairly simple.
Finally I can start the process of marking the back side of the shelves for the mounting hardware. I’m putting the hardware on the longer boards because they will have the heaviest items on them. So to begin, I make a mark 5 inches from each end of the board.
Next, using a combination square, I find the center and make another mark.
I chuck up a 1/2” bit in my drill press and drill a 4 1/2” deep hole.
My drill press wasn’t able to drill that deep, so I had to finish with my cordless drill.
Next I need to route a 3/4” groove so that the hardware will be hidden and the shelves will sit flush up against the wall. Now I’ve seen some folks skip this part and leave the hardware proud of the shelf, but I’m going to hide it.
I make a mark 2 inches to the left and right of the hole. This is going to be the full width of the groove. I made mine a little wider than the bracket just in case I need to move it around a little on the wall as the brackets are adjustable. But, if you want to make your groove a little shorter, go right ahead. I often over plan on projects like this.
To make the groove I’m using my plunge router with a edge guide installed as well as a 3/4” straight bit.
I line up the bit and plunge down 1/4” at a time until the groove is 1/2” deep.
Next I hit the edges of the boards with my smoothing plane to remove any marks
Next I switch over and sand the surfaces using 120, 150 and 180 grit sandpaper on my orbital sander.
To help prevent glue from getting on the surface, I put some masking tape on the boards, right up against the miters. When the glue dries, I can just pop the tape off and the glue squeeze out comes with it.
Speaking of glue up, I can now start that process by putting glue in the domino holes and then on the miters.
This is a pretty straight forward glue up, it’s essentially a 3 sided box.
I put a few clamps on the shelves to help pull everything together and I also make sure the corners were 90 degrees to one another. I let the shelves sit in clamps over night.
For the finish, I wiped on 3 coats of a wiping varnish using a cotton cloth. Since these are shelves, they won’t need a whole lot of protection, so I stopped after 3 coats.
I sanded between each coat with 320 grit sandpaper.
With the finish dried I installed the LED’s. The LED’s I purchased are adhesive backed, so it’s as simple as pulling the paper off of the back and sticking them in to place. But before I did that, I did a trial run to see where I needed to cut the LED strip.
The strip has indicators letting you know where you can safely cut the strip.
With the strip cut to length, I pulled the paper off the back and pushed it in the groove the same way I did during the trial run. And now we are ready to mount the shelves!
The hardware comes with wall anchors but the screws are too big and cause the anchors to just spin in the wall. So, I went to my local hardware store and bought 8 self tapping wall anchors that you see here. I also bought replacement screws as the other ones were too big.
Off camera I made a template to help me figure out where to place the holes for the brackets. It’s just a cut off from the longer shelf board. It’s the same exact length and width so it’s perfect for this. I drilled a few holes so all I have to do is measure up 54 inches from the floor, throw a level on top of the template and mark the holes for the wall anchors.
To install the anchors you really don’t have to use a hammer but I like to tap the anchors in right up to where the threads start. You can use a screw driver but I like the control a hammer gives you. With a screw driver, I install the anchor. Since the template gives me the location for all 4 holes, I go ahead and install the other 3 wall anchors.
Next, I put the washer on the screws and mounted the bracket. I left the bracket a little loose so that I can level it up before tightening them.
With the brackets installed, I slid the shelf in to place. If you notice your shelf not sitting flush against the wall, the brackets are adjustable as you can see here. The top of my shelves weren’t flush so I adjusted it and now it’s perfect.
To install the second shelf, I placed a level on top of the first shelf and scribed a line all the way across the bottom of the level.
Now it’s as simple as placing my template up against the line and make marks for the wall anchors.
I install the 4 anchors and then the 4 brackets before putting the shelf in place.
And the shelves are finally done! I love the modern look of the shelves and the LEDS are a nice touch. This design is nice in that you can re-arrange them to form different shapes, like an S or keep them in this rectangular position. The cherry will be beautiful in a few years when it starts to age a little.