Haha, I’m actually working on a humidor style project next, I think, and was planning on incorporating spanish cedar on the inside. It won’t actually be a humidor but I love the look of them.
Oh my gosh, I'm speechless. This chest is absolutely beautiful! Thank you for sharing, now i'm going to go look at all of the fine details I missed the first couple of times I looked at the photos.
Sorry for the long delay but I haven't been on the site in a while. The only real change I'd make is to make the cabinet about 6-8 inches shorter and the enclosure top, 6-8 taller. It's sometimes difficult to reach way into the machine and at that enclosure height, you practically have to crawl into it.
Any upgrades or changes you'd make after having this enclosure for close to 3 years? did you wish you'd done anything different or was any part of it improved on in the following years? looking to replicate this with any insight you might have for if you were to build it a second time.
So sorry, I haven't been on the site in quite a while and just saw this. I did the dovetail mortise on the tablesaw. I tilted my blade to the appropriate angle and did the two side walls of the mortise, then did lots of passes down the middle to get rid of most of the waste and then I could crack out all the little slats that were left. I then cleaned up the floor with a shoulder plane and chisels. Hope this helps!
I'm so sorry, I haven't been on the site in quite a while and just saw this. I don't have official plans but I do have a Sketchup model of it. There were one or two design changes to the bench mid-build due to a mistake or two and I changed the model to accurately reflect that, so not everything has to be done exactly that way.
Wow absolutely fantastic great job! And best of all, you can still fit at least 1 car in there! The only thing I would have changed is each of those outlets would be on a dedicated circuit.
Thanks so much! It's 4" thick and really solid. If you're going to go with a split top, the only thing I'd change is the insert. I never use the tool rest function and it is a black hole for shavings, pencils screws, etc. I need to make a solid version. However, I use it as a plane stop a lot and it's awesome for that.
I've heard of people inserting actual cores into their wands like you said, for that extra "realism". I could see doing it with something that adds a little weight because they're very light and don't feel substantial enough.
On the CNC, I do what's called a 2-sided cut. The work piece starts off as a block of wood and the machine cuts away 99% of the material from the wand, but only around the wand. A substantial portion of the block is still left and there are a couple little "tabs" that keep the wand attached to the rest of the block. That way, when the wand is cut free, it doesn't go flying and/or get damaged by the cutter. It first cuts out the top half of the shape, cutting down to exactly half the thickness of the block. Then I flip the block over and it cuts the bottom side, going to exactly half the thickness of the block again and "meeting up" with the first cut. The shape is now completely carved out with just those tabs suspending it within the bigger block. I just cut those tabs with a fret saw and sand away the little bit that's left.
Unfortunately, it's hard to see in those pictures because it's so dark, but I took a spongy closed-cell foam block and cut a groove in it that the wand could nestle in. I used spray adhesive to "upholster" the foam with black velvet. They hold the wands really securely so they don't bump around in transit and has the added benefit of looking pretty snazzy too.
So sorry I didn't see this earlier and get back to you. The weight isn't too bad, similar to my cheap plastic and metal paddles, maybe a bit more. Obviously it's a lot heavier than the all carbon fiber paddles. I didn't notice much difference in fatigue level after a long paddle.
Thanks so much! It was fun adding all those details but I had to keep reminding myself that the original pieces had a very minimalist feel to them and I didn't want to go overboard!
Wow, this is so awesome! I love all the fine details. I feel like this is the type of project that every time you look at it, you will notice a little feature you didn't see before.
Do it! They're a lot of fun. I made several without the cnc and the only really difference is time and creative work holding to clean up the inside faces and any decorative cuts after you've resawn it open. Here's a great link to Roy Underhill's take on it that might give you a better idea of how it's done.
I scrolled back and forth about 6 times until I finally figured out how the heck this works....this is incredible! Thanks for the tutorial, I'd love to try this sometime (sans CNC).
Comments
Campaign Style Coffee Chest
@WoodGate said:Haha, I’m actually working on a humidor style project next, I think, and was planning on incorporating spanish cedar on the inside. It won’t actually be a humidor but I love the look of them.
Campaign Style Coffee Chest
@Sean said:Wow, thanks so much Sean! Happy to share on your site.
Shapeoko Xxl Cnc Enclosure And Cabinet
Sorry for the long delay but I haven't been on the site in a while. The only real change I'd make is to make the cabinet about 6-8 inches shorter and the enclosure top, 6-8 taller. It's sometimes difficult to reach way into the machine and at that enclosure height, you practically have to crawl into it.
@mrcryptic said:Split-Top Roubo Workbench
So sorry, I haven't been on the site in quite a while and just saw this. I did the dovetail mortise on the tablesaw. I tilted my blade to the appropriate angle and did the two side walls of the mortise, then did lots of passes down the middle to get rid of most of the waste and then I could crack out all the little slats that were left. I then cleaned up the floor with a shoulder plane and chisels. Hope this helps!
@YouTubeWoodworker said:Split-Top Roubo Workbench
I'm so sorry, I haven't been on the site in quite a while and just saw this. I don't have official plans but I do have a Sketchup model of it. There were one or two design changes to the bench mid-build due to a mistake or two and I changed the model to accurately reflect that, so not everything has to be done exactly that way.
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/u19734266-b3b5-4345-a0a8-d11ea5c33770/Roubo-Woodworking-workbench
@Abdelli said:
Garage Shop Upgrade
Thank you! I'd have liked to do exactly that but both my main panel and sub panel are completely full.
@WoodGate said:Shapeoko Xxl Cnc Enclosure And Cabinet
If you use Sketchup, here's a link to the model that I uploaded to their 3d warehouse. Hopefully it helps. I'm happy to answer any questions about it!
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ed5eff05-fd18-4a5d-a303-c521246d290e/Enclosure-and-cabinet-for-a-Shapeoko-3-XXL-CNC-router
@klm123 said:
Split-Top Roubo Workbench
Thanks so much! It's 4" thick and really solid. If you're going to go with a split top, the only thing I'd change is the insert. I never use the tool rest function and it is a black hole for shavings, pencils screws, etc. I need to make a solid version. However, I use it as a plane stop a lot and it's awesome for that.
@wickedcoast said:Magic Wands & Wand Boxes
I've heard of people inserting actual cores into their wands like you said, for that extra "realism". I could see doing it with something that adds a little weight because they're very light and don't feel substantial enough.
On the CNC, I do what's called a 2-sided cut. The work piece starts off as a block of wood and the machine cuts away 99% of the material from the wand, but only around the wand. A substantial portion of the block is still left and there are a couple little "tabs" that keep the wand attached to the rest of the block. That way, when the wand is cut free, it doesn't go flying and/or get damaged by the cutter. It first cuts out the top half of the shape, cutting down to exactly half the thickness of the block. Then I flip the block over and it cuts the bottom side, going to exactly half the thickness of the block again and "meeting up" with the first cut. The shape is now completely carved out with just those tabs suspending it within the bigger block. I just cut those tabs with a fret saw and sand away the little bit that's left.
Unfortunately, it's hard to see in those pictures because it's so dark, but I took a spongy closed-cell foam block and cut a groove in it that the wand could nestle in. I used spray adhesive to "upholster" the foam with black velvet. They hold the wands really securely so they don't bump around in transit and has the added benefit of looking pretty snazzy too.
Kayak Paddle
So sorry I didn't see this earlier and get back to you. The weight isn't too bad, similar to my cheap plastic and metal paddles, maybe a bit more. Obviously it's a lot heavier than the all carbon fiber paddles. I didn't notice much difference in fatigue level after a long paddle.
@Sp00ks said:Kayak Paddle
That's ok, I want a standup paddle board so I can build a paddle for that too...that and they're a lot of fun.
@joelav said:Cathedral, Game Of The Medieval City
Thanks for the great complement! It was one of my first games too.
@Wolvercote said:Cathedral, Game Of The Medieval City
Thanks so much! It was fun adding all those details but I had to keep reminding myself that the original pieces had a very minimalist feel to them and I didn't want to go overboard!
@Sean said:Monsieur Roubo, Meet Mr. Iphone
Do it! They're a lot of fun. I made several without the cnc and the only really difference is time and creative work holding to clean up the inside faces and any decorative cuts after you've resawn it open. Here's a great link to Roy Underhill's take on it that might give you a better idea of how it's done.
https://youtu.be/WZnqn77u8lk
@Steve_S said:
Split-Top Roubo Workbench
Thanks, I appreciate it!
@Thom said:Split-Top Roubo Workbench
Thanks so much! I'm definitely sold on SYP for work surfaces and structural components.
@Timmy2Hands said: