Because I was working with an existing mirror and I wasn't using miters, I needed to make sure that my math was correct on dimensions. Thankfully I passed Jr. High algebra and was able to get things right. 

I have been meaning to get a shop notebook for stuff like this, but planing off 1/32" from this Douglas Fir plank works well too.

Fun Fact:  This was supposed to be a cherry frame, but when I resawed the material is bowed beyond all belief and I wasn't about to use inferior material. I've had this ash in the racks since I bought it on a discount sale from my hardwood dealer last year. It's about high time that I got around to using it. I had a nice selection of sap/heart wood to contend with, lets see what I  can do.

The height of the mirror exceeded the capacity of my miter gauge and crosscut sled for the use of a stop block, I decided the only other option was to cut everything at once. Blue tape keeps things together well enough for a few quick cuts. If it was anything more extensive I would have put a strip down the whole seam.

After I cut everything to length and width, I fiddled around with orientation. I couldn't escape the sapwood, so I embraced it and grouped the pieces as much as I could. I like the way it flows from the upper corner, I only with I could have performed a magic trick to mirror the board on the right.

For the bridle joints I set my gauge to the width of the material plus 1/8". If you weren't keeping the joints proud, a 1/16" would be sufficient for cleanup post gluing. I use the scribe line to set the fence on my saw. 

Cut the shoulders first, just like a tenon but skipping the ends. I don't like using a dado blade because it leaves score marks, so I had my old combination blade sharpened to a flat top and it leaves a nice surface.

Right off the saw, no cleanup required.

Tenons cut on all 4 corners, easiest part of the build.

I would normally do this on the table saw with my tenoning jig, but I thought I'd give the bandsaw method a try. I should have used a shorter fence so I could get the guides closer to the cutting area to avoid extra movement of the blade.

This seemed like a great way to remove the waste until I broke my third blade....

This was a good compromise. I still cleared things out with the fret saw, but this decreased the heat building up on the blade causing it to break so often.

Many many practice joints later.

I got the fit dialed in really nicely.

A well fitting joint. Goes together and comes apart without a mallet and holds its own weight. 

Each joint needed a bit of chisel work to clean up to the baseline, so I just took it one side at a time.

Not too bad right?

I thought I was prepared. I thought I was safe. I got too cocky. My long clamps were 1/2" too short to fit the whole assembly. 

I did the best I could with a mallet to keep the ends seated. But next time I'll go buy some pipe.

I generally cut the rabbets of my frames on the tablesaw before I glue them up, but that isn't possible on a frame that's not mitered like this one. I used a simple rabbeting bit from Freud and it did a great job. 

Rounded corners were the only cleanup that was needed.

Badaboom.

I used whatever hardware I had left over to keep the mirror in. I used 4 of these bumper holders, probably need two more, but whatever, this works. 

I love to use my eggbeater drill for stuff like this. Quiet and controlled.

Excuse the messy dresser and box of maternity clothes our friends gave us. :)

I initially intended to leave the bridle joints square, but after glue up decided to put a little chamfer on them. Next time I'll do this before the glue up.

Who's that sexy guy in there?!